Gardabaer

Wealthy commuter suburb between Reykjavik and Hafnarfjordur — quiet, coastal, home to the president's residence.

Gardabaer is Iceland's suburbia at its most polished — big houses, wide streets, the presidential residence at Bessastadir out on the Alftanes peninsula. There's no downtown to speak of, just a shopping centre at Gardatorg and a scattering of restaurants. You come here for one of three reasons: you're visiting family, you're doing the Vidistadir beach walk, or the Reykjavik and Kopavogur hotels are full. At 9pm the streets empty out entirely — no bars, no late shops, just driveways and the hum of distant traffic from Reykjanesbraut.

The Alftanes peninsula is the redeeming feature. It's flat, coastal, easy cycling and walking, and the president's house at Bessastadir is a small white church-and-farmhouse complex you can walk right up to (no fence, no guards visible). Doubles run ISK 15967-ISK 22108. Skip if you want anything urban. Suits drivers with a car, birdwatchers, and people prioritising quiet over convenience. Locals walk dogs along Skogtjorn at dusk, and the light across the bay towards Snaefellsjokull on a clear evening is worth the detour on its own.

Gardatorg itself is a low-rise shopping centre off Sudurhraun, built around a supermarket, a pharmacy and a handful of cafes — functional rather than charming, and closed by 6pm most evenings. The best-known restaurant nearby is a pizza place on Gardatorg's upper level that locals actually rate, but there's little else to draw a visitor. Vidistadir beach, a five-minute drive north, has black sand and driftwood and is popular with dog walkers and joggers rather than tourists. If you're staying in Gardabaer without a car, plan your evenings before you arrive — nothing opens spontaneously here.

Families with young children do well here — the streets are safe, the schools are good, and Vifilsstadavatn lake a few minutes inland has an easy flat path for prams and small bikes. Retirees and long-stay visitors renting an apartment for a month also find it works, trading nightlife for space and quiet. But if your trip is measured in days rather than weeks, and you want to walk to dinner after a long day of sightseeing, base yourself in Reykjavik or Hafnarfjordur instead and treat Gardabaer as a half-day detour for Bessastadir.

Where to sleep

There aren't really neighbourhood choices here — the handful of hotels cluster near Gardatorg or along Vifilsstadavegur. Expect ISK 15967-ISK 22108 in summer, cheaper in winter. Free parking, quiet streets, but you'll drive or bus to eat anywhere interesting. If you want to be near the coast, look for guesthouses on the Alftanes peninsula itself — a few small B&Bs sit within walking distance of the shoreline and Bessastadir. Winter rates can drop to around ISK 12000 a night for a double, but expect fewer amenities and a colder wait for buses that run less frequently after October. Avoid anything advertised as central Gardabaer if you're relying on foot traffic for meals — the walk to Gardatorg from the Vifilsstadavegur cluster is a flat but exposed 15 minutes with no pavement lighting after dark. Book the Alftanes peninsula guesthouses if the walk to Bessastadir matters more to you than the shopping centre; book near Gardatorg if you just need a bed and a car.

The essentials

Bessastadir peninsula walk (5 km)

Start at Alftaneslaug pool, walk west along the coastal path towards Bessastadir. Pass the tide pools at Skogtjorn, then loop around the presidential residence and continue along the north shore of the peninsula. Return via the same path or cut inland through the residential streets. Seabirds, seals occasionally, and views of Snaefellsjokull on clear days. Allow about 90 minutes at an easy pace.

Getting there & around

Bus 1 from Reykjavik stops at Gardatorg in 20 minutes, ISK 614. Bus 23 continues out to Alftanes peninsula but runs only hourly. From Keflavik airport, take the Flybus to Hafnarfjordur (30 minutes, ISK 3685) and connect on bus 1. Honestly, without a car Gardabaer is a hassle — the peninsula and even the shopping centre involve waits. Rent a car or pick a different base. Straeto's app sells single tickets and day passes if you're combining stops with Reykjavik or Hafnarfjordur, since drivers don't take cash. A taxi from Keflavik direct to Gardabaer runs about ISK 18000-ISK 22000, which only makes sense if you're splitting the fare across a group. Once here, walking between the shopping centre, Vifilsstadavegur hotels and the peninsula is possible but slow — budget 30-40 minutes on foot for anything not directly across the road.