Iceland's Lopapeysa Sweater: A Buyer's Guide by Region

What makes a lopapeysa, and what it should cost

A true lopapeysa is hand-knitted from lopi, the Icelandic wool yarn spun from the fleece of sheep that have never been crossbred. The yarn comes in two weights: léttlopi, lighter and softer, and alafínalopi, the heavy single-ply used for most traditional sweaters. Look for the round yoke pattern across the shoulders and a stitched seam rather than a printed panel. Machine-knitted versions using the same wool start around 15,000–20,000 ISK in Reykjavík shops; genuinely hand-knitted garments from known knitters run roughly 35,000–60,000 ISK, and more for complex designs.

Check the label before you commit. The Handknitting Association of Iceland (Handprjónasamband Íslands) sells certified hand-knitted pieces at its shop on Skólavörðustígur in Reykjavík, and the certification is what justifies the higher price. A sweater labelled simply "Icelandic wool" may be machine-knitted in the same yarn, which is fine and warm but should cost less. Alafínalopi is scratchy against bare skin — most Icelanders wear a long-sleeved base layer underneath, so size up if you plan to do the same. Woolite-style hand washing in cool water keeps the shape.

Reykjavík: the biggest choice, and where to start

Reykjavík holds most of the stock, so it is the sensible first stop if you want to compare. The Handknitting Association shop on Skólavörðustígur and the Álafoss outlet on Laugavegur are both a short walk from hotels around Austurstræti and Hverfisgata. Farmers Market on Hverfisgata carries more design-led versions, and the Kolaportið flea market by the old harbour, open at weekends, is where you occasionally find second-hand lopapeysur at lower prices. If you are staying in the Miðborg core, all of these sit within 15 minutes on foot.

My recommendation is to buy in Reykjavík only after you have seen the prices elsewhere, because airport and rural shops can be more expensive for identical goods. That said, if your itinerary is a three-night city stay with day tours to the Golden Circle and the South Coast, buying here saves you hunting later. Stay near Laugavegur or Skólavörðustígur and you can try sweaters on between coffee and dinner rather than rushing before a coach departure.

The countryside: Álafoss, Húsavík and the Westfjords

The original Álafoss wool mill sits in Mosfellsbær, about 20 minutes' drive from central Reykjavík on Route 1, and its factory shop is the place to see the full yarn range alongside finished sweaters. Driving the Ring Road, the craft shops around Húsavík and Akureyri on the north coast stock locally knitted pieces, and the Handicraft Association outlets in Ísafjörður serve the Westfjords. Expect similar prices to Reykjavík, occasionally a little higher because of transport, but a better chance of one-off patterns.

In the Westfjords the season matters: many smaller shops close or shorten hours outside June to August, and roads to Ísafjörður via Route 60 can be slow in winter. If a rural sweater is the point of the trip, plan the drive for June, July or early September and base yourself in Ísafjörður or Akureyri for a couple of nights so you are not shopping against a ferry timetable. For most travellers I would book the sweater in Reykjavík and spend the rural days on the landscape instead.

What to skip, and how to pack it home

Skip the souvenir shops on Laugavegur selling thin, loosely knitted sweaters with printed yokes at seemingly attractive prices — they are usually machine-made abroad and will not wear like lopi. Also skip buying at Keflavík Airport on the way out unless you have already compared in town; the range is narrow and you cannot try things on properly. Sizing runs generous and unisex, so try before buying rather than guessing from a chart.

Pack the sweater flat in a vacuum bag or wear it on the flight; lopi is bulky and does not compress well in a suitcase. Buy a small skein of matching yarn if the shop offers it, which makes repairs easier. Most Reykjavík shops take cards, and the tax-free refund at Keflavík applies to purchases above the minimum threshold — keep the receipts. If you are building a trip around this, book a hotel in central Reykjavík for the first and last nights and let the sweater be the easy part of the packing.