Day trip to Landmannalaugar from Iceland

How to get there

Landmannalaugar sits on the F208 F-road, 190km from Reykjavik. You cannot drive it in a standard car — the road includes river crossings. Options: rent a proper 4x4 like a Dacia Duster (ISK 18423 a day) or take the Reykjavik Excursions Highland bus for about ISK 15967 return. The drive itself takes roughly four hours each way once you are on the F-road, so factor that into any self-drive plan. Parking at the campsite is a gravel area with no barriers; leave nothing valuable visible inside the car overnight if you are staying longer than a day.

The bus leaves BSI at 7am and gets you back by 9pm, giving 4-5 hours on the ground. Book at re.is. Trex also runs a comparable Highland service from the same terminal at a similar price, useful as a backup if Reykjavik Excursions sells out — which happens routinely in July and August, so book at least a week ahead in peak season. Both operators pick up from a few central stops before the main terminal departure, which saves the walk to BSI if your hotel is on the route.

What to do there

The Laugahringur circular trail is 5-6km and takes 2 hours — it climbs the multi-coloured Brennisteinsalda mountain and drops through lava field Laugahraun. Well-marked, moderate difficulty. The path is loose scoria in places and can be slippery after rain, so trail shoes with grip matter more than looks. If your bus schedule only gives you three hours, skip the summit push on Brennisteinsalda and instead do the shorter loop around Laugahraun and Grænagil gorge, which still delivers the colour contrast without the steep climb.

The real reward is the natural hot river next to the campsite — free, changing hut on-site, water around 36-40C. Bring towel and flip-flops for the rocky bottom. Combine hike then soak. The upstream end near the cold glacial inflow is noticeably cooler than the pools closer to the geothermal source, so wade around until you find a temperature you like rather than settling for the first spot. Arrive right after your hike, before the afternoon buses unload, if you want the water closer to yourself.

Practicalities

Pack layers — weather changes fast in the Highlands and it can snow in July. No cafe, so bring lunch and water. There is a small shop in an old bus at the campsite selling coffee and instant noodles at inflated prices. Cash is not accepted; card only, and the connection can be patchy, so carry contactless if possible. There are basic toilets near the campsite hut, but no showers beyond the geothermal river itself, so plan your day accordingly if you are continuing on to another stop afterwards.

If you are into serious hiking, Landmannalaugar is the start of the 55km Laugavegur trail to Thorsmork — 4 days with mountain huts (book months ahead through Ferdafelag Islands). For most people, the day trip is plenty. Mobile signal is weak to nonexistent for most carriers once you are past Hrauneyjar, so download offline maps and let someone know your return time before you leave Reykjavik. The 112 Iceland app, which shares your location with search and rescue at the press of a button, is worth having installed regardless of how short your visit is.

Guided tour or self-drive?

A private jeep tour with an operator like Extreme Iceland or Iceland Rovers runs from roughly ISK 45000 to ISK 65000 per person and adds a driver-guide who explains the geology and can adapt the stop for weather — worth it if you want commentary and flexibility and do not want to think about river crossings yourself. The Reykjavik Excursions or Trex bus at ISK 15967 return is the honest budget pick and is what most solo travellers and couples should book; it is a big coach, not a jeep, so the ride itself is comfortable rather than adventurous.

Self-driving only makes sense if you already have a 4x4 rented for a longer Highland loop and are confident reading river depths — insurance on smaller rental 4x4s is often void for F-roads regardless of drive type, so check the contract before you rely on it. Skip the idea of doing this in a 2WD camper van; agencies will not cover damage and the crossings are genuinely not passable. If in doubt, the bus removes all of the risk for a fraction of the private tour price.

Where to stay before an early departure

Because the Highland bus leaves BSI at 7am, staying somewhere walkable to the terminal saves a stressful taxi at dawn. Fosshotel Lind on Rauðarárstígur is a straightforward, reliable choice within easy walking distance, with simple rooms and a breakfast that starts early enough for a 7am pickup. Hotel Von, a smaller boutique option nearby, suits travellers who want something quieter and more personal than a chain hotel the night before a long day out.

Budget travellers should look at KEX Hotel and Hostel Reykjavik, which has dorm beds as well as private rooms and a laid-back common area if you want to compare notes with other Highland-bound guests the evening before. Hotel Fron and CenterHotel Skjaldbreid, both in the wider city-centre cluster, are reasonable mid-range alternatives if the closer options are full — expect a 15-20 minute walk or a short taxi ride to BSI from either.

Camping and mountain huts

The Landmannalaugar campsite, run by Ferðafélag Íslands, charges roughly ISK 2000-2500 per person per night for a patch of ground with toilets and the hot river on the doorstep — no showers, no power hookups. It is basic but genuinely spectacular as a place to wake up, ringed by the rhyolite peaks that draw people here in the first place. Bring a four-season tent; even in July, overnight temperatures can dip close to freezing and wind off the highlands is relentless.

The adjacent mountain hut sleeps a limited number of people in bunks with a warden on-site, and it is booked out months in advance for the summer season through Ferðafélag Íslands directly, especially by hikers starting the Laugavegur trail to Thorsmork. If you turn up hoping for a walk-in hut bed in July or August you will almost certainly be disappointed — the campsite, or a return to Reykjavik on the evening bus, is the realistic plan for anyone without a hut booking already confirmed.

Best time of day and light

The first bus of the day arrives at Landmannalaugar mid-morning, roughly the same time as several other tour buses, so the trailhead and the hot river are at their busiest between 11am and 2pm. If you can, do the Laugahringur loop first while the crowd is thickest at the river, then soak once the afternoon buses have started leaving — the difference in how crowded the pools feel is significant.

Midsummer light lasts long enough that the colours in the rhyolite — ochre, pink, green mineral streaks — read best in the softer, lower sun of early evening rather than at midday, which is worth knowing if you are travelling with your own vehicle and have some flexibility on timing. Photographers should note there is no paved viewpoint or platform; the best angles on Brennisteinsalda are from partway up the marked trail itself, not from the car park.