Reykjavik to Húsavík: Driving Iceland's North in Autumn

Choosing the route: Ring Road 1 versus the Kjölur interior

The default is Route 1 through Borgarfjörður and Skagafjörður, roughly 460 kilometres and six to seven hours of driving without stops, though most people stretch it over two days. You pass Akranes, cross the fjord at Borgarnes, then follow the Hringvegur north past Staðarskáli and into Skagafjörður, where the old turf farm at Glaumbær and the fisheries town of Sauðárkrókur sit within an hour of each other. Autumn colours peak in the birch scrub here in mid to late September, and traffic thins noticeably after the first week of the month.

The alternative is the Kjölur highland track, F35, which cuts north from Gullfoss across the interior to the Skagafjörður valley, a shorter distance but a much slower drive on gravel. It is normally passable only in a properly equipped vehicle and only until the first serious snow, often late September or early October, and conditions change without much notice. I would not book it as a first-timer's route in October. Take Route 1 and spend the saved stress on an extra night somewhere worth it.

Where to break the journey: Borgarnes, Skagafjörður and Akureyri

Borgarnes, about 75 kilometres and an hour from Reykjavik, works well for a first night if you leave the capital in the afternoon. The Settlement Centre there gives useful context on the sagas before you reach the northern sites, and the town has a reasonable spread of guesthouses and small hotels. Further on, Varmahlíð in Skagafjörður is the natural second stop, quiet and close to the Glaumbær turf house and the horse-riding farms around the valley. Expect mid-range guesthouses rather than large hotels, and book ahead in September because availability tightens once the summer staff leave.

Akureyri is the biggest northern hub, roughly four and a half hours from Reykjavik, and the obvious base for the final leg east to Húsavík. It has the widest choice of accommodation, from hostels to full-service hotels, and the botanical garden at Lystigarðurinn is at its best in early September. From Akureyri, Húsavík is about an hour further along Route 85 through the Fnjóskadalur valley. I would book two nights in Akureyri and one in Húsavík rather than trying to reach the coast in a single push.

Whale watching in Húsavík and what to expect from the season

Húsavík's whale-watching operators run from the harbour at the north end of town, with Skjálfandi bay a short steam offshore. Humpbacks are the reliable sighting through September, with minke whales and the occasional blue whale earlier in the summer. Autumn sailings are fewer, usually one a day rather than three or four, and they are more weather-dependent. Bring a windproof layer even if the harbour looks calm; the bay gets choppy quickly, and most boats supply overalls but not gloves.

September is the sweet spot for combining decent sea conditions with thinner crowds and easier accommodation. By mid-October, sailings drop off and a handful of operators close for the season. Prices vary by operator and trip length, so compare on the day rather than assuming a fixed rate. The town itself is small and walkable, with the wooden church above the harbour and the exploration museum a short stroll away. I would book the whale trip for your first morning in Húsavík, leaving a second morning as a weather back-up.

Where to stay and how autumn changes the booking picture

Húsavík has a compact set of hotels and guesthouses within walking distance of the harbour, and autumn rates are generally lower than the July peak. Book a room with a sea view if the budget stretches, because the bay and the opposite mountains are the reason to be here. The town has no large chain properties, so inventory is limited and the better places fill first. Check cancellation terms carefully; autumn weather can force a change of plan, and flexible booking is worth more than a small saving on a non-refundable rate.

If you are building the drive into a longer Icelandic trip, sort accommodation before you sort the car. The northern guesthouses and small hotels have the thinnest availability in September, while rental vehicles are plentiful in Reykjavik and Akureyri. Aim to arrive in Húsavík by late afternoon so you can eat in town without driving again; the harbour restaurants cluster within a few streets and close earlier once summer ends. The drive back to Reykjavik is long, so consider returning via Akureyri and flying south rather than repeating the whole road.