Making the Most of Three Days in Borgarnes

Day 1: Settle in and explore the town

Arriving in Borgarnes, most travellers come by car on Route 1, about 75 kilometres north of Reykjavík, a drive of roughly an hour. The town itself is compact, with guesthouses and a handful of hotels clustered near the harbour and the Ring Road. Check in, then head to the Settlement Centre, which tells the story of Iceland's first settlers and Egil's Saga. It's a good introduction to the region's history. For lunch, try the local bakery or the café at the museum; prices are typical for Iceland, with a simple meal costing around 2,000 to 3,000 ISK.

In the afternoon, walk the shoreline path and climb the small hill for views over the fjord. The Borgarnes Swimming Pool is a local favourite, with geothermally heated outdoor pools and hot tubs. Entry is modest, around 1,000 ISK. If you're staying the night, consider a hotel with a view of the water; the lights reflecting on the fjord at dusk are memorable. Book ahead in summer, as rooms fill up quickly. For dinner, there are a few restaurants along the main street, serving lamb, fish and burgers. Expect to pay 3,000 to 4,000 ISK for a main course.

Day 2: The Golden Circle's western neighbours

Many visitors use Borgarnes as a base for the Golden Circle, but the town is even closer to two outstanding sites: Deildartunguhver and Reykholt. Deildartunguhver is Europe's most powerful hot spring, a steaming vent that produces 180 litres of boiling water per second. It's a 30-minute drive (about 25 kilometres) from Borgarnes along Route 50. The site is free to visit, with a viewing platform. Combine it with a stop at Krauma, a spa that uses water from the spring. Krauma has steam baths and hot tubs; entry is around 6,000 ISK. It's a relaxing way to spend a couple of hours.

Then continue to Reykholt, the medieval home of historian Snorri Sturluson. The Snorrastofa cultural centre and museum (entry about 1,500 ISK) is worth a visit, and the nearby Snorralaug hot spring is one of Iceland's oldest preserved geothermal pools. For lunch, the café at Reykholt serves homemade soups and bread. In the afternoon, drive back towards Borgarnes and take a detour to Húsafell, a leafy valley with trails and a golf course. The Húsafell swimming pool is another good stop. Best months for this route are May to September, when roads are clear and days are long.

Day 3: Into the wild or out to the islands

For your last day, choose between the interior and the coast. The interior option takes you along Route 518 towards Húsafell and the edge of Langjökull glacier. From Húsafell, you can join a glacier hike or snowmobile tour (book in advance; expect 15,000 ISK and up). The drive from Borgarnes to Húsafell is about 45 minutes (40 kilometres). Alternatively, head west to the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. The drive to Stykkishólmur, a charming harbour town, takes about 1.5 hours (120 kilometres). Along the way, stop at the Bjarnarhöfn Shark Museum or take a ferry to Flatey island in summer.

If you're based in Borgarnes, the Snæfellsnes option makes for a long but rewarding day. You'll see fishing villages, lava fields and possibly seals. Return to Borgarnes for a final dinner; the town's restaurants are low-key but satisfying. For a treat, try the ice cream at the local dairy. As you pack, consider an early start the next morning if you're driving back to Reykjavík or onwards to the Westfjords. The roads are generally quiet, but allow extra time in winter. Booking a hotel in Borgarnes for three nights gives you a comfortable hub without unpacking repeatedly.