How to Plan a Self-Drive Trip Around Iceland's Snæfellsnes Peninsula

Getting there and choosing your base

From Reykjavík, follow Route 1 north through the Hvalfjörður tunnel (toll about 1,000 ISK) and turn onto Route 54 at Borgarnes. The drive to Stykkishólmur takes around two hours, or you can approach from the south via Route 54 through Borgarfjörður. Most rental cars are compact hatchbacks or SUVs; a standard car is fine for the paved roads and gravel shoulders you'll meet, but check your insurance covers gravel damage. Fuel up in Borgarnes or Stykkishólmur because stations are sparse on the peninsula. Best months are June to August for long daylight hours; May and September are quieter but expect some services to be reduced.

For a two-night stay, Stykkishólmur is the natural base. The town has a pretty harbour, a striking modern church on the hill and several guesthouses and small hotels. From there, the southern coast with its black beaches and bird cliffs is within an hour's drive. Alternative bases are Grundarfjörður, a fishing village under the dramatic Kirkjufell mountain, and Arnarstapi, a tiny hamlet right on the cliffs. Grundarfjörður suits photographers chasing Kirkjufell at sunset; Arnarstapi is best if you want to walk the coastal path to Hellnar first thing in the morning. Book accommodation early in July and August, especially in Stykkishólmur, where rooms sell out weeks ahead.

The southern coast: beaches, cliffs and birdlife

Start your day early and drive west from Stykkishólmur on Route 54. The first major stop is the black sand beach at Djúpalónssandur, where you can test your strength on the old lifting stones and see the rusting remains of a British trawler. Continue to Malarrif and the small visitor centre for the national park, which explains the area's volcanic history. From there, the coastal road leads to Arnarstapi, where the basalt cliffs are riddled with nesting birds in summer. The walk from Arnarstapi to Hellnar is about 2.5 kilometres and takes an hour at an easy pace; it's one of the most rewarding short hikes on the peninsula. Allow four to five hours for the southern loop, including stops.

The southern coast is where you'll find the peninsula's most photographed features. Lóndrangar, two volcanic plugs rising from the sea, is visible from the road and worth a ten-minute stop. Just before Arnarstapi, the stone arch at Gatklettur is a favourite with photographers. There are few cafes along this stretch; the small restaurant at Arnarstapi serves decent fish soup and coffee, but it gets busy at lunchtime. Bring water and snacks. Also note that the weather can change quickly; even in July, coastal fog and drizzle are common, so pack a waterproof layer and sturdy shoes for the cliff paths.

The northern coast and Kirkjufell

From Arnarstapi, backtrack to Route 54 and head north around the peninsula. The road skirts the shore of Breiðafjörður, a wide bay dotted with islands, and passes through the village of Grundarfjörður. Here, the landmark Kirkjufell mountain rises like a cone behind the town; a short path from the road leads to a viewpoint by the waterfall, especially popular at sunset. Grundarfjörður has a couple of guesthouses and a small hotel, plus a grocery store and a fuel station. If you're staying in Stykkishólmur, it's about a 40-minute drive back, so plan to finish the loop before dark in winter.

Continue east from Grundarfjörður along Route 54 to the fishing village of Ólafsvík, which has a modern church and a small maritime museum. The drive from Grundarfjörður to Ólafsvík takes about 20 minutes. From there, you can return to Stykkishólmur via Route 54, or take the more scenic Route 58 over the hills. The northern coast is less visited than the south, so you'll often have the viewpoints to yourself. The beach at Skarðsvík, near Öndverðarnes, is a quiet spot with golden sand and turquoise water, though the currents make swimming dangerous. Allow three to four hours for this loop, including stops.

Where to stay and what to book

For most travellers, I would book two nights in Stykkishólmur. The town has the widest range of accommodation, from hostel dorms to comfortable guesthouses, and a handful of restaurants serving local seafood. Prices in summer range from around 15,000 to 25,000 ISK for a double room with breakfast; budget options are limited, so reserve early. If you prefer a quieter base, Grundarfjörður has a few guesthouses with mountain views, but dining options are very limited. Arnarstapi has a hotel and a couple of guesthouses, ideal if you want to be on the cliffs at dawn. Avoid trying to see the peninsula as a day trip from Reykjavík; the driving alone takes five to six hours, leaving little time to explore.

When booking, look for places with free parking and breakfast included; many guesthouses offer both. Check cancellation policies carefully, as weather can disrupt travel plans. For dinner, Stykkishólmur has a few options including a restaurant by the harbour; in Grundarfjörður, the hotel restaurant is often the only choice, so book a table in advance. Fuel up before leaving the larger towns; there are no petrol stations on the southern coast between Arnarstapi and Hellnar. Finally, respect the fragile environment by staying on marked paths and not disturbing nesting birds. With two nights and a full day of driving, you'll see the highlights without rushing.